Greece is not only known for handsome guys and financial crises. In fact, Greeks have been making wine for over 5,000 years.
While Greece may not be the birthplace of wine, it significantly contributed to grape cultivation and winemaking techniques, even preceding the monks of the Cistercian Order by several centuries. Wine was an essential element in gatherings of philosophers and intellectuals in ancient Greece during what was known as the "Golden Age." During this period, Greece spread winemaking techniques and regulations throughout the Mediterranean region.
However, the "wine" of that time wasn't just grapes; it also included various spices and honey to enhance the flavor. This early "Greek wine" was known as Retsina. Strictly speaking, it wasn't wine but a alcoholic beverage made from a mixture of grapes, spices, herbs, honey, and most importantly, pine resin. The birth of Retsina was due to the lack of oak barrels for storing wine. People used clay amphorae to store wine, and to make these fragile vessels more durable, they began lining them with resin. When they discovered that resin could impart a special pleasant pine aroma to the wine, it started being added as an ingredient for winemaking.
This traditional Greek "wine" exudes enticing pine aromas and persisted in Greece even after the Romans began using oak barrels to store wine. Today, it still exists and is typically blended with resin and local varieties such as Savatiano, Roditis, and Assyrtiko white grapes. If you ever visit Greece, don't miss the chance to try it!
Despite Greece's long winemaking history, why is it considered a niche wine region known only to wine connoisseurs?
The reason lies in Greece's tumultuous history, from the Roman Empire in the 2nd century BC to the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, and through the turmoil of the World Wars. The wine industry suffered from export challenges and at times focused solely on producing wine for local consumption.
Internationally, Greek wine was often associated with cheap, low-quality styles. It wasn't until the late 1990s, coinciding with an economic upturn, that small-scale wineries began producing quality wine. However, most of it still catered to the domestic market. Ironically, the economic downturn after the 2008 financial crisis forced Greeks to seek export opportunities, finally drawing attention to this "hidden gem" of a wine region.
Today, with 90% of vineyards planted with indigenous grape varieties, each with tongue-twisting pronunciations, Greek wines struggle to gain popularity. However, if you think of Greece and envision sunshine and the Aegean Sea, you've already grasped half of the essence of Greek wine.
Situated near the Mediterranean, Greece enjoys a long and hot growing season, with summer temperatures reaching up to 30°C.
This climate results in grapes that are fully ripe, concentrated in flavor, and grown mainly at elevations between 400-700 meters, providing sufficient cooling. Consequently, Greek wines generally exhibit full-bodied fruitiness, refreshing acidity, and structure, with strong sea winds keeping vineyards dry and free from mold, requiring minimal pesticide use. This makes them ideal for producing dry, organic sweet wines.
Greek wine is characterized by one word: "Terroir." The vast majority of vineyards cultivate indigenous grape varieties, with new native varieties constantly emerging. Among the most renowned are two black and one red grape variety:
Assyrtiko, renowned for its dry white wines, presents a spectrum of flavors from vibrant citrus, peach, and tropical fruits to subtle mineral and smoky undertones. Its structured body ensures a balanced palate. Assyrtiko's versatility extends to the iconic sweet wine, Vinsanto, hailing from Santorini, a volcanic island in the Cyclades Island group.
Agiorgitiko, often likened to the "Greek Merlot," yields red wines with ripe red fruit flavors and a hint of sweet spice from oak aging, supported by smooth tannins. Notable examples include the 100% Agiorgitiko red wine from Nemea in southern Peloponnese.
Xinomavro, hailed as the "king of Greek red wine," boasts superior quality. Predominantly grown in Macedonia in northern Greece, Xinomavro wines draw comparisons to Italy's Nebbiolo, both exhibiting light garnet hues, high acidity, and tannins with remarkable aging potential. With aging, they develop complex non-fruit aromas such as violets, spices, leather, and wet earth. Xinomavro wines are often blended with Merlot and aged in new French oak barrels, rendering them more accessible than Barolo crafted from Nebbiolo.
Santorini, a volcanic island in the Cyclades island group, deserves special mention for its production of dry and sweet wines from Assyrtiko. The island's unique volcanic ash soil imparts a distinctive smoky aroma to its white wines, coupled with concentrated fruit flavors due to minimal rainfall and low yields. Santorini's wines are renowned for their exceptional aging potential.
Vinsanto, a sweet wine crafted from late-harvested grapes sun-dried for two weeks and aged in large oak barrels for over two years, stands out with its remarkable flavors of dried fruits, coffee, and chocolate. It pairs exquisitely with desserts. With exceedingly low production akin to ice wine and Sauternes, Vinsanto commands a price around $50 for a 375ml bottle.
